Destination (mountain): Mt.Fuji/Kengamine (3776m)
Hiking course: The 8th Station (3200m 0:15) – the 9th Station (3600m 1:39) – Kusushi Shrine (3711m 2:30) – Yamaguchiya (3:45) – Jujugatake (4:50) – [“Ohachimeguri” or Around-the-crater Hike] Sengen Taisha Shrine (Post Office 5:25) – Kengamine (3776m 5:53) – Kusushi Shrine (6:34) – Subashiri Exit (6:37) – the 7th Station (Public Restroom 8:09) – the 5th Station (“MIharashi” 10:00)
Partner: Salangcho (AhToSan member)
I could not sleep at all on the previous day. I got up at 11:30 pm when most of other hikers woke up and began preparing for the hike.
There was a long line of people at the restrooms of Hakuunso. We patiently waited for our turn. Then we began to hike at 0:15 am.
There were already many hikers in front of us, yet not too many to walk slowly. Rather, we passed over the hikers before us.
We arrived at the 9th station at 1:40 and even at the top of the trail (the goal for the mountain marathon) at 2:30 am.
[The sign of the 9th Station, 九合目の標識、규고메(구합목)의 표식]
Comparing my past hiking experiences, it was the fastest hike from the 8th station to the top. But we had to wait at the top of the mountain for more than two hours! It was VERY COLD there.
[At the shrine gate of Kusushi Shrine, 久須志神社の鳥居にて、구스시 신사(의 토리이에서]
First, we walked on to the foot of “Jojugatake”the first peak around the crator just next to Subashiri Exit. We took the best place to see the sunrise. Then waited for the sunrise.
It must be around 3 or 4 degree centigurade, but since we had been still we felt very cold.
The lodges on the top of Mt. Fuji began opening around 3 am so we went to Yamaguchiya to have something hot at 3:45 am.
Salancho had “Miso Ramen” while I had “Tonjiru”soup. Each cost 900 yen and 800 yen. They tasted very good, though very expensive.
After having hot staff, we went back to the place we put our laggage, and kept waiting for the sunrise.
At 4:30, the clouds began turning red. Then at last, we saw the sunrise among the sea of clouds at 4:45.
[Salangcho, waiting for the sunrise, 日の出を待つサランチョ、일출을 기다리는 사랑초]
There were many people around and some of them shouted “Let’s say “banzai” three times!” and they did!
[People waiting for the sunrise, 日の出を待つ人々、일출을 기다리는 사람들]
[George at the moment of the sunrise, 日の出の瞬間のジョージ、일출 순간의 조지]
Then we went to the edge of the crator of Mt. Fuji. There were some snow remained. Then we began walking around the crator clockwise. It is called “Ohachimeguri”or “making a pilgrimage around Mt. Fuji Crator.”
[In front of the crater of Mt. Fuji, 富士山火口にて、후지산 분화구에서]
Actually there are many religious facilities around the crator (3 shirines and 3 shirine gates, so far.)
First, we went to Sengen Taisha Shrine at the top of Fujinomiya trail. There is a big shrine gate called “Torii” and a post office there.
[The post office on the top of Mt. Fuji, 富士山頂の郵便局、후지산 정상의 우체국]
If I prepared letters and/or postcards, they would accept them and put seals on them there. My friends would appreciate it if they got such letters/postcards with Fujisan-seals.
[Kengamine of Mt. Fuji, 富士山頂の『剣ヶ峰』、후지산 정상의 『겐가미네』]
I saw the shadow of Mt. Fuji on the sea of clouds clearly again this year, too. Then we had to climb the slope of Kengamine, the highest peak among peaks around the crator.
[At the landmark of Kengamine(3776m) with Salangcho, 剣ヶ峰頂上(3776m)の石標にて、겐가미네 정상의 석표에서]
There was a long waiting line for taking pictures at the landmark of Kengamine. We had to wait for about 10 minutes for our turn.
[The landmark on the top of Kengamine, 剣ヶ峰頂上の石標、겐가미네 정상의 석표]
[At the top of Kengamine, 剣ヶ峰頂上付近にて、겐가미네 정상부근에서.]
After spending about 10 minutes on the top of Kengamine, I noticed that the waiting line became longer, as twice as longer than the time we began making line.
[Looking down the crater from the top of Kengamine, 剣ヶ峰の頂上から火口を見下ろす、겐가미네 정상에서 분화구를 내려다본다.]
[George in front of the shadow of Mt. Fuji, 影富士を背景に、후지의 그림자를 배경으로]
[Looking back "Kengamine", 剣ヶ峰を振り返る、겐가미네를 되돌아본다.]
We completed the prilgrimage when we reached the first shrine (Kusushi Shrine) at 6:34. It took as one hour and half to complete this “Ohachimeguri.”
[We came back to Kusushi Shrine, 我々は久須志神社へ戻ってきた。우리는 구스시 신사에 되돌아 왔다.]
[A map which shows the location of shrines/peaks around the crater of Mt. Fuji, 富士山頂上の略図、후지산 정상의 약도]
Before descending the trail, I used a public toilet near Yamaguchiya. They charge 300 yen for men’s number one! It must be most expensive toilet in Japan!
We began descending at 6:30 at Subashiri Exit for descending the mountain. The trail for descending is wide and simple, because it is the road for bulldozer.
[At Subashiri Exit for descending, 須走口下山口にて、스바시리구치 하산구에서]
We walked rather fast and we passed over the Chinese youth at around the 7th station. Then we caught up with the Kitao family.
Mr. Kitao said that they began climbing the mountain at 8th station at 1:30 am, but it was so many people, and could not move almost none. So they gave up going upward at around the 9th station and went to the bypss to the descending trail.
[We saw Kitao family again, 北尾家族に再会、기타오 가족을 다시 만났다.]
Too bad that they could not make it. Junta may try again before he went to elementary school.
[Horses for hikers who were too tired to walk, 疲れた登山者用の馬、지친 등산자용 말들]
We arrived at Miharashi at around 10 am and the bus left for Tokyo at 12:00. The bus stopped at a hotspring and we spent about 2 hours there.
[A coach horse eating grasses, 草を食む馬車用の馬、마차를 끄는 말이 풀을 먹고 있다.]
We were caught by traffic jam on our way to Shinjuku. We came back to Shinjuku at 6:30 pm.
Salangcho went to K’s House by herself and I went to Ofuna by Shonan Shinjuku Line.
Note: The cost for the trip (roundtrip fee for the bus, stay at the lodge with two meals and hotspring) was 12800 yen. (The weekend was 14,800 yen.)
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登山月日：2012年7月28日(土)晴れ
登山地：富士山・剣ヶ峰(3,776m)
登山コース：八合目(白雲荘3200m 0:15)～九合目(3600m 1:39)～富士山頂久須志神社(3711m 2:30)～山口屋(3:45)～成就ケ岳(4:50)～[お鉢巡り]～浅間大社奥宮(郵便局5:25)～剣ヶ峰(3776m 5:53)～久須志神社(6:34)～須走口下山口(6:37)～七合目公衆トイレ(8:09)～五合目「みはらし」(10:00)
同行者：アトサン会員サランチョ
前夜まんじりともできず、まだ日が変わらない前日の午後11:30に同宿のグループが起床して登山支度を開始。我々もいっしょに起きてトイレの後、0:15に出発した。トイレはすごい人の列で10分ほど待たされた。これは宿泊者以外の登山者も使うためだろう。
我々の前にはいくつかのグループがすでに先を進んでいたが、我々は次々と追い抜き、九合目には１時40分、頂上にはなんと2時30分には到着してしまった。
[At the shrine on the top of Mt. Fuji, 富士山頂久須志神社前にて、후지산 정상 구스시 신사앞에서]
日の出は4時40分なのでたっぷり2時間は待たなければならない。いったん、山小屋の前を過ぎて下山路の上の成就ケ岳のもっとも前列に場所をとり、1時間ほど待機したが、あまりの寒さに耐えきれず、山小屋が開くのをみて、あたたかいものを食べに山小屋へ向かった。
山口屋は非常に混雑していたが、それでも空いた場所を探して、座り、サランチョはラーメン、私はトン汁を注文した。この時、隣を見ると山小屋で渡された弁当を食べていた。冷たい弁当も暖かい汁物といっしょにたべればよかったと思ったが、残念。
[Salancho and ramen, サランチョとラーメン、사랑초와 라면]
さて、途中で中座したが、また元の位置に戻って、日の出を待った。この時、寝袋があればよかったなと一瞬、思ったが、そこまで用意周到にはできない。サランチョは雨具を上手に着て、まるで寝袋にくるまっているようだった。
4時半、ようやく空が白んで、雲が赤くなってきた。ちょうど日の出の方向に離れ雲が浮かび、なかなかよい風情。4:44にかすかに見えた太陽は4:50にはかなりはっきりと姿を現し始めた。
[The sky before the sunrise, 日の出前の空の様子、일출앞의 하늘 모양]
[People waiting for the sunrise, 日の出を待つ人々、일출을 기다리는 사람들]
[Salangcho, waiting for the sunrise, 日の出を待つサランチョ、일출을 기다리는 사랑초]
このころ、声の大きい一人が音頭を取り、登山者たちは「万歳」三唱となえた。この後、簡単に冷たい弁当の朝食を済ませ、雪の残っている火口を見てからお鉢めぐりに出発した。
お鉢めぐりは大徳大学の学生を連れてきた2010年から3年連続成功だ。まず成就ケ岳の横の朝日ケ岳の裾野から時計回りの方向に進む。
5時25分には浅間大社奥宮に到着。ここには郵便局があるのだが、今回も絵葉書を準備するのを忘れた。ここで投函すればもらった人は喜ぶのだろうが、残念。
今回も影富士を左に見ながら、剣ヶ峰の急こう配の坂を上った。毎回、ここには写真撮影のため列ができる。我々も約20メートルほどの列に並び、5時53分に日本最高峰での認証写真を撮った。
[The shadow of Mt. Fuji on the clouds, 雲海の上の「影富士」、구름바다 위의 후지 그림자]
[At the landmark of Kengamine with Salangcho, 剣ヶ峰頂上(3776m)の石標にて、겐가미네 정상의 석표에서]
剣ヶ峰の頂上で10分ほど過ごしてから降りると、この10分の間に列は約2倍ほど長く伸びていた。
今年は例年以上に残雪が残っていて火口の残雪もみごたえがあった。また、影富士もしっかりと見え、遠くに日本アルプスの山々も見えた。
[Salangcho by the snow still remaining near Kengamine, 剣ヶ峰付近の残雪、겐가미네 부근에 남아있었던 눈.]
[Snow remaining in the crater of Mt. Fuji, 富士山火口に残る雪、후지산 분화구에 남아있는 눈]
火口を一周して久須志(クスシ)神社奥宮に戻ったのは6時33分。ここで下山のまえに山頂でトイレを使ったが、なんと男子小用の場合でもトイレ使用料は300円！きっと日本一高い小用トイレ使用料だろうと思った。 さて、再び成就ガ岳の裾に戻り、須走口下山口から6時37分に下山開始。
下山は広々としたブルドーザーの通り道。毎年のことだが、単調でつま先が痛くなる。また、跳ね上げる小石が登山靴に入り、何度か靴を脱いで取らなければならない。夏用のタンパンでも使えるスパッツがあるとよいと思った。
[富士山の下山はブルドーザー用、후지산의 하산은 불도저용]
下りの七合目付近で中国人5人組を見かけ、六合目ではふたたび北尾ファミリーに再会した。
ミスター北尾にきいたところによると彼らは白雲荘を1時半ごろ出発したが、あまりの混雑のため九合目で登頂をあきらめ、下山道に入って下りてきたと言う。
八合目の出発が我々と1時間の差だったが、我々が登った後、大混雑したらしい。中間をとって、1時ごろ出発すればちょうどよかったのだろうか。
六合目をすぎたころから山にはガスがかかり、最後の馬車道では山中湖や河口湖がまったく見えなかった。また、六合目には疲れた登山者を乗せる馬が数頭いる。利用する人はごくたまにいる。値段は聞かなかったがきっと高いことだろう。
また、最後の五合目のバス停へのアプローチは若干の上り坂になっていて、疲れた登山者には特にきつい。この坂を10人以上の客を乗せて引く馬車があり、こちらのほうは結構客がいた。
[A coach horse eating grasses, 草を食む馬車用の馬、마차를 끄는 말이 풀을 먹고 있다.]
五合目の「見晴らし」には10時ごろ到着。1号車の最後は中国人5人組で11時半ごろかれらも戻ってきた。
バスは12時に出発。途中、温泉でも北尾父子に会った。ジュンタ君は彼の祖父が最近、亡くなったことなどいろいろ話してくれた。
東京への帰路は渋滞に巻き込まれ、新宿到着は6時半ごろだった。サランチョはJRと地下鉄を利用してホテルへもどり、私は湘南新宿ラインで大船に戻った。
今回のクラブゲッツの富士山ツアーの参加費は五合目までのバスの往復、八合目山小屋指定の1泊2食＋復路の温泉入浴で12800円だった。(日程が土日だと2000円アップされる。)
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