130518 Traversal of Mt. Jiri (智異山縦走：지리산 무박종주)

Hiking Date: May 18, 2013 (Sat) Fine, then cloudy, later at night, rain

Destination (mountain): Mt. Jiri (Jeonra-do & GyongNami-do))

Hiking course: Seogsamje – NoGoDan – Dwaejiryong – Norumok – DamDoBong – ToKkiBong – MyongSeonBong – Yonhacheon Shelter – HyongJeBong – ByokSoRyong Shelter - DeokPyongBong – JilSeonBong - YongSinBong – SeSeokDae Shelter – GeoRim Bus Stop – JungSanRi Parking Lot (About 32 km)

Partner: 17 AhToSan members

[Map of Mt. Jiri, 智異山の地図、지리산　지도]

AhToSan planned the traversal of Mt. Jiri. Jeongjeong, one of the staff members, planned this long hike for me, since this is my last summer in Korea.

Total hiking distance is over 30 km, so only strong hikers could apply for this hike. Jeongjeong was kind enough to walk with me from the beginning to the end, so I would never be lost during this hike.

The bus left at 11 pm on Friday. AhToSan chartered a micro-bus with 20 seats, not the regular big size bus. I sat the back seat which turned out to be the worst seat because I could not recline the seat.

[Our micro-bus arrived at SeongSamJe at 2:30 am, ソンサムジェへ2時半に到着した。성삼제에 2시 반에 도착했다.]

The man in front of me reclined his seat up to the largest angle, so I had very little space for my legs. I also felt much jolts because it was the back-end position. Therefore I could not sleep at all.

[Three female members of AhToSan, アトサンの三人の女性会員、아토산 여성 회원들]

[At SeongSamJe before the gate open, 出発前、ソンサムジェにて、출발 전 성삼제에서]

[A group picture before the hike, 出発前の集合写真、출발전 단체 사진]

However, we arrived at SeongSamJe, the starting point for the long hike at 2:30 am. The gate for the trail was open at 3 am. I hurried to walk ahead as the top among all hikers, until for 5 minutes. 10 minutes later, all AhToSan members got ahead of me!

Anyhow I could manage to arrive at NoGoDan Shelter at 3:36 am. All AhToSan hikers were waiting for me.

[At NoGoDan Shelter, 老姑壇退避所にて、노고단 대피소에서]

It was clear that night and I could see many stars in the sky and many constellations such as the Great Bear, Cassiopeia, Scorpius and the Milky Way, etc.

We had “Suzuki Time” at NoGoDan Pass, so my bag became a little lighter.

The trail from NoGoDan Pass to Doaejiryong was many rocks and difficult to walk. My flashlight became weak because the batteries worn out. Then one of fellow hikers, Tazan, offered his spare light to me. I borrowed it with thanks and it was a great help for me.

It became dawn before I reached at Dwaejiryong. Jeongjeong walked with me so that I would not be lost. Other hikers must be at DamDoDong and could see nice sunrise, I thought. I felt sorry for her.

[At dawn near SamDoBong, 三道峰付近で夜明け、삼도봉 근처에서 새벽]

[[Korean rhododendron、カラムラサキツツジ、진달래]]

[Minju near SamDoBong, 三道峰付近にて、삼도봉 부근에서]

I arrived at SamDobong at 6:06. Other members were already having breakfast there. So Jeongjeong and I joined them.

[George at SamDoBong, 三道峰にて、삼도봉에서]

They gave me two packs of bento which were sticky rice with red beans. I ate one of them and one of toast sandwich I made previous night. I also offered a Japanese can beer (Asahi, 500cc) to my fellow hikers.

[Breakfast at SamDoBong, 三道峰にて朝食、삼도봉에서 아침 식사]

[After Breakfast, 朝食後、아침 식사 후]

After having breakfast, I could enjoy ridge hike. There were many beautiful flowers, especially fawn liliy (or trout lily, dog's-tooth violet, etc.) This flower is called "Yeolleji 얼레지" in Korean and native to Japan, Korea and northeastern China. And I Korea, I saw many in Mt. Jiri.

[Katakuri (Dogtooth violet), カタクリ、얼레지]

[[Korean rhododendron、カラムラサキツツジ、진달래]]

[Jeongjeong at the wooden stairs, 木の階段にて、나무 계단에서]

Besides “Yeolleji” there were many “Jindallae" or “Korean rhododendron” and “Sancheoljjuk” or “Royal azalea.”

[[Royal azalea、クロフネツツジ、산철쭉]]

Usually “Jindallae” blooms early spring and “Sancheoljjuk” booms in May, but at JiRiSan, they bloom at the same time.

I arrived at ToKkiBong at 7:36. The president of AhToSan and J-nim and those who were ahead of me, were waiting for me and encouraged me.

[The guide post at TokkiBong, トッキ峰の里程標、토끼봉 이정표]

“Kkachi” seemed very sleepy and he was taking nap at the side of the trail. Jeongjeong also said, “Oh, I am sleepy” several times. So it was not only I who could not sleep last night.

[Some members were taking nap、昼寝をする会員、회원이 낮잠을 자고있다.]

Actually Jeongjeong stumbled behind me and laughed at herself. She seemed to sleep while walking!

There was a nice facilitated trail with wooden stairs. I saw a rather big cherry tree, and cherry blossoms were in full bloom.

We arrived at YonHaCheon Shelter at 9:06 am. There was a water-supply place, and clean toilet. I joined the middle group and took several pictures with them.

[At YonHaCheon Shelter, ヨンハチョン待避所にて、연하천 대피소에서]

[Katakuri (Dogtooth violet), カタクリ、얼레지]

There were beautiful yellow flowers which reminded me of “Ryukinka” or “kingcup/marsh marigold” around here.

I arrived at HyongJeBong at 10:10. Some of AhToSan members were waiting for me. They climbed HyongJe Bawui, which means “Brothers Rock.” I also climbed this rock.

[At HyongJeBong, 兄弟峰にて、형제봉에서]

[HyongJe Rock, 兄弟岩、형제바위]

There were many beautiful flowers including “Cat’s Eye” which I saw several years ago at Mt. Jiri. I have never seen that flower since then. I found this flower at the same place when I saw it before. This time, I saw many of this flower along the trail.

[[Potentilla fragarioides, キジムシロ、양지꽃]]

[Cat’s Eye, ネコノメソウ、괭이눈]

We arrived at ByongSoRyong Shelter at 11 am. There were nice tables and benches in front of the shelter, so we decided to have lunch there.

[ByongSoRyong Shelter, 碧宵嶺待避所、벽소령 대피소]

I had the 2nd pack of the rice with red beans and another can of beer and sandwiches. While we were having lunch, there was a big sound of “Bang!” just next to our table. It was a gas-explosion of cooking burner which our neighbors were using.

[Lunch at ByongSoRyong Shelter, 碧宵嶺待避所にて昼食、벽소령 대피소에서 점심]

Their cooking utensil was blown away and a hiker got injured by the blast in his arm. Fortunately it was not serious, so they wrapped his arm and that’s it. The lesson is that we should be careful when we use gas and fire.

[After lunch at ByongSoRyong Shelter, 昼食後、碧宵嶺待避所にて、점심 식사 후 벽소령 대피소에서]

From ByongSoRyong Shelter to SeSeokDae Shelter, the last leg of the ridge walking, I really enjoyed the beautiy of “Jindallae”flowers. These “Jindallae” are different from ordinary “Jindallae” but they were “Tol Jindalllae” special kind which broom in high land.

[[Royal azalea、クロフネツツジ、산철쭉]]

[On the ridge trail, 稜線の登山路にて、능선 등산로에서]

When I went through the tunnels of “Jindalle” passing YongShinBong, I happened to see an old AhToSan member who was carrying heavy bag on her.

[Jeongjeong in the "Road of Jindallae" チンダルレの道に立つチョンジョン、정정이 진달래의 길에 서있다.]

Her nickname is “Lion.”She was a strong female hike like “Jeongjeong.” She used to be a hiking leader of AhToSan.

[I happened to see "Lion"、 元アトサン会員、『ライオン』、전 아토산 회원 "라이온"]

Anyway, I have not seen her for a couple of years. But I remember her “nick name.”So I called her and she recognized me, too.

Jeongjeong was also glad to see Lion, so they stopped and began a long chatting. I took their pictures and went ahead.

[Jeongjeong and Lion, チョンジョンとライオン、정정과 라이온]

When I arrived at Seseok Shelter, Jeongjeong caught me up. At this point it was 2:40 am. I thought it was too late to head for CheonWangBong, which required 12 km more, so I decided to go down from the mountain.

[The explanation of "rhododendron mucronulatum var"、トルチンダルレの説明、털진달래　설명]

Jeongjeong accompanied with me. We began descending the mountain and headed for GeoRim village. It was about 6 km from Seseok Shelter.

[SeSeokDae Shelter, セソクデ待避所、세석대　대피소]

There was a bus service available from GeoRim to JungSanRi, the final destination, and it was 4:50 bus. We had to hurry to reach at the bus stop at GeoRim at 4:50. Actually, we almost ran for 6 km.

[We arrived at GeoRim Village, コリム村へ到着、거림 마을에 도착]

We could not take the bus, anyway, but Jeongjeong called a taxi. We went to JunSanRi from GeoRim by taxi and it was just 5 pm we arrived at the final destination.

The most of hikers arrived at the final destination at 6 pm when those who came earlier were having supper at a restaurant. But one person “Kkachi” did not come down even at 8 pm.

[We had supper at a restaurant, 運転手食堂で夕食、기사 식당에서 저녁 식사]

We went to the exit of the trail by micro-bus, and Jeongjeong went into the mountain to support the last hiker.

[We left the restaurant at 7:40 pm、食堂を７時40分に出た。식당을 7시 40 분에 나왔다.]

They finally came to the bus at 9 pm, then we headed for Daejeon. We came back to Daejeon at 11:40. I returned to my studio apartment after midnight. A little bit tired, but I am satisfied with what I had done: more than 30 km hiking successfully.

It was my 23rd hike for this year and my 314th hike as AhToSan regular hike.

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分類：登山、韓国、春山「智異山縦走」

登山月日：2013年5月18日晴れ後曇り、夜雨

登山地：智異山縦走(老姑壇～三道峰～天王峰)

登山コース：ソンサムジェ(성삼제)-老姑壇(노고단)退避所-老姑壇峠-テジ領(돼지령)-1424峰(H)-イムギル領(임길령1320m)-ノルモク(노루목1500m)-三道峰(삼도봉1550m)-トッキ峰(토끼봉1537m)-木の階段-ミョンソン峰(명선봉1586m)-ヨンハチョン(연하천)待避所-兄弟峰(형제봉1537m)-兄弟岩-ピョクソリョン(벽소령)待避所-トクピョン峰(덕평봉)-チルソン峰(질선봉)-長い階段-ヨンシン峰(영신봉)-セソクデ(세석대)待避所(23km)-------(下山路:6km)------コリム売標所(거림매표소)-(1km)-コリム(거림)バス停～タクシー～中山里(중산리)駐車場(歩行距離約32km)

同行者：アトサン会員17名

今回は韓国の名山中の名山、智異山の縦走で、その距離は30kmを超えるため、参加者はわずか18人と少人数だった。そのためアトサンは20人乗りのマイクロバスを利用した。

[Map of Mt. Jiri, 智異山の地図、지리산　지도]

私は一番後ろの席に座ったがこれは大失敗。一番後ろはリクライニングができない上、直前に座った人間が目いっぱい、リクライニングを倒したため、不便この上もない。また、振動が激しく、一睡もできなかった。

南門出発は金曜夜の11時で、バスは2時半にソンサムジェに到着。2:38には外へ出た。ゲート前で集合写真撮影後、3時きっかりに入山した。

[Our micro-bus arrived at SeongSamJe at 2:30 am, ソンサムジェへ2時半に到着した。성삼제에 2시 반에 도착했다.]

[A member is pointing the traversal course, 会員が縦走コースを示している、회원이 종주 코스를 가리키고있다.]

[A group picture before the hike, 出発前の集合写真、출발전 단체 사진]

まっさきに飛び出し最初の5分間だけ先頭を歩いた。しかし5分後に先頭集団に追い抜かれ、10分後にはアトサン全員に抜かされた。それでも老姑壇退避所に3時36分、老姑壇峠には3時50分に到着した。

ここまで見上げると満点の星空で、カシオペアや大熊座、さそり座、天の川が良く見えた。ここで1回目の休憩でフルーツを食べてもらった。

["Suzuki Time" at NoGoDan Pass, 老姑壇峠にて『スズキタイム』、노고단 고개에서 "스즈키 타임"]

このころ持参したライトの電池が消耗して暗くなった。ここから夜が明ける5時ごろにかけて足場の悪い登山路で困ったが、バス内で隣に座った新人(別名ターザン)が私に予備のライトを貸してくれて大いに助かった。ライトの点検は事前準備で重要事項の一つだということを改めて認識した。

テジリョンの手前で夜が明けて来て私に同行してくれたチョンジョンがいまごろ日の出だと語った。私にかまわずに進めばたぶん三道峰(삼도봉1550m)ですばらしい日の出が見えただろうに申し訳ないと思う。

[At dawn near SamDoBong, 三道峰付近で夜明け、삼도봉 근처에서 새벽]

[Jeongjeong kept accompany of me, チョンジョンが私につきあってくれた。정정님이 나와 함께 걸었다.]

[Jeongjeong near SamDoBong, 三道峰付近にて、삼도봉 부근에서]

三道峰に着いたのは6時6分で、認証写真を撮ってから朝食のグループに加わった。バス内で配られた2個のお赤飯の1つとサンドイッチ1個食べた。また、重いのでビールの500cc缶を提供した。

[George at SamDoBong, 三道峰にて、삼도봉에서]

[Breakfast at SamDoBong, 三道峰にて朝食、삼도봉에서 아침 식사]

三道峰の朝食後は朝霧に浮かぶ智異山の峰々と足元の花々を楽しんだ。智異山はカタクリの群落が多い。また、チンダルレとサンチョルチュクが同時に咲いている。

[Katakuri (Dogtooth violet), カタクリ、얼레지]

[[Korean rhododendron、カラムラサキツツジ、진달래]]

[[Royal azalea、クロフネツツジ、산철쭉]]

トッキ峰(토끼봉1537m)には7時36分に到着した。トッキ峰では先行していたアランドロン会長やJニムたちが待っていてくれて、励ましてくれた。

[Jeongjeong and Minju at TokkiBong, トッキ峰にて、토끼 봉에서]

カッチはひどく眠いらしく、10分ほど道端で眠ったようだ。また、チョンジョンも「眠い」を連発し、私のすぐ後ろを歩いていて転んでしまった。幸い怪我はなかったようだ。寝不足は私だけではない。

[Some members were taking nap、昼寝をする会員、회원이 낮잠을 자고있다.]

途中良く整備された木の階段もあり、八重桜の大木には桜が満開だった。ヨンハチョン(연하천)待避所には9時6分に到着。ここでは飲み水も補給でき、きれいなトイレも完備していた。

[YonHaCheon Shelter, ヨンハチョン待避所、연하천 대피소]

[At YonHaCheon Shelter, ヨンハチョン待避所にて、연하천 대피소에서]

また、アトサンの中間隊のアランドロン会長、民主、Jニムらが待っていて合流して写真を撮った。

あざやかな黄色いリュウキンカのような黄色い花も多く咲いていた。なんといってもカタクリの群落がすばらしい。

[Katakuri (Dogtooth violet), カタクリ、얼레지]

兄弟岩には10時10分到着。ここでは私を含めて7、8人ほどいて、岩の上に登って写真を撮ったりした。

[At HyongJeBong, 兄弟峰にて、형제봉에서]

この後、高山のキジムシロが見事に咲いていて、この花も撮影した。また、だいぶ前に一度だけみた「ネコノメソウ」とかいう珍しい花も群落で発見。ハッピーな気分になった。

[[Potentilla fragarioides, キジムシロ、양지꽃]]

[Cat’s Eye, ネコノメソウ、괭이눈]

碧宵嶺(벽소령ピョクソリョン)待避所には11時に到着。ここの大きめのテーブルを1つ占領して昼食にした。

[ByongSoRyong Shelter, 碧宵嶺待避所、벽소령 대피소]

ところが食事のまっさかりに隣のテーブルでガスが風にあおられて白煙と共に爆発し、鍋がふっとんで一人が腕に傷を負う事故が発生した。大事にいたらなかったことは不幸中の幸いだが、火を使う時は十分注意をしなければいけない。

[Lunch at ByongSoRyong Shelter, 碧宵嶺待避所にて昼食、벽소령 대피소에서 점심]

今回の縦走では、この碧宵嶺待避所での風が一番強く寒かった。食事は30分ほどで、弁当の残りの1個とサンドイッチを食べた。

Jニムがジョニウォーカーの青を提供したが、私は遠慮して味わえなかった。民主は2杯3杯と空けたが彼女は実に豪傑だ。

碧宵嶺待避所を後にしたコースは次第にチンダルレとサンチョルチュクの密度が増した。尾根は見晴らしが良いがこのころから空は一面の雲で太陽の陽射しが遮られ、登山には最適だ。

天王峰は雲とすれすれの高さで頂上が少し雲に隠れる程度で風情がある。

["Jindallae" on the ridge, 稜線のチンダルレ、능선의 진달래]

[[Royal azalea、クロフネツツジ、산철쭉]]

[On the ridge trail, 稜線の登山路にて、능선 등산로에서]

[Katakuri (Dogtooth violet), カタクリ、얼레지]

みごとなチンダルレの群落を楽しみつつ、ヨンシン峰(영신봉)には午後2時20分に到着。チンダルレのトンネルを抜けてセソク待避所へ下りようとしたところで思わぬハイカーに出会った。

前方からすごい荷物を背負った女性が以前アトサンで山行大将を務めた「ライオン」によく似ていると思ったら、彼女だった。

[Jeongjeong and Lion, チョンジョンとライオン、정정과 라이온]

チョンジョンも大喜びで二人の出会いの写真を何枚も撮影した。話も尽きないようでしばし立ち話をしていたが、私は先にセソク待避所へ下った。

この時点で2時40分だったが、チョンジョンがトイレへ行き、また水場で顔を洗ったりしていたのでここを出発したのは2時50分。

ここから先の天王峰に至る登山はあきらめ、コリム・マウル(村)へ出る下山路を選択した。チョンジョンが地図に書いたバスの時刻表では午後4時50分。このバスに間に合わせようと6キロを飛ぶように下った。

実際、勾配もあるし、岩がごろごろしていて油断がならない下山路だが、必死で下った。前を行くハイカーを何人も追い抜いてコリムへ着いたのは4時30分。

[The exit of the trail at GeoRim, コリム売票所、거림 매표소]

しかしバス停はさらに舗装道路を1～2キロ下らねばならない。だが、チョンジョンは4時50分のバスはなくなったという。

[We arrived at Georim Bus Stop, 我々はコリムバス停に到着した、리는 거림바스 정류장에 도착했다]

彼女はバス停の近くでコールタクシーを呼び、結局タクシーに乗って中山里へ着いたのはちょうど5時だった。

この時点で夫婦ものとカッチの息子が先にコリムからタクシーで下山しており、またスーパーハイカーの三人がフルコースを下山してマッコリで一杯やっていた。

夫婦とカッチの息子と私はマイクロバス内で1時間待機。6時過ぎにアランドロンや民主、ややおくれてJニムが下山した。

運転手用の食堂(キサシクタン)でパジョンとマッコリ、およびビビンパプを食べた。7時すぎに遅れた三人組が下山したが、カッチ一人がひざの故障で下山に苦労し、結局登山口までバスで行き、チョンジョンとラブがカッチを迎えに行った。

[We had supper at a restaurant, 運転手食堂で夕食、기사 식당에서 저녁 식사]

[Bibimbap for supper, 夕食のビビンパ、저녁식사 비빔밥]

三人がバスに到着したのは9時過ぎだった。大田には11時40分ごろ到着。ワンルームには12時過ぎに到着した。

[The last hiker arrived at the bus, 最後の会員がバスに到着、마지막 회원이 버스에 도착]

途中の休憩所から降り始めた雨は幸い小ぶりで自転車で帰るには支障がなかった。マイクロバスによる往復はつらかったが、登山そのものは充実したハイキングであった。

2013年に23回目の登山であり、アトサンの通算定期登山の参加回数は314目である。

また、1日に30キロを超える登山は今回が初めてで、歩き通したことに自信を持った。