Place: Mt. Maruyama (2330m) and Nakayama (2496m), North Yatsugatake (Chino-city, Nagano Prefecture)
Course: Hutte Mugikusa – Shirakomanoike – Mt. Maruyama – Hutte Takamiishi – Observatory – Hutte Takamiishi – Mt. Nakayama – (Lost the way) – Hutte Takamiishi Saino Kawara – Sibunoyu (Staying at Shibugoten Ryokan (About 10 km, 6 hours)
Partner: Mr. Mastumoto
Accomodation of Hutte Mugikusa was 150, yet the guests on that night were only Mr. Matsumoto and me. We had breakfast in the dining room, but it was too cold to have a good appitite. After the breakfast, I wrote my comments in the free notebook named “Tsurezure” in which Mr. Matsumoto wrote his comments last night.
There were a young cook and “okami” in the hutte for the service. The “okami” looked a woman of 40s. She was friendly and told me that she climbed a mountain near Seoul. (I guess it was “Bukhansan.”) She said that she bought her hiking pants which she was wearing then. She even treated us nice coffee after the breakfast.
[Breakfast at the hutte, ヒュッテの朝食、휘테의 아침 식사]What surprised me most was the incident at washroom that morning. They put kerosene heter in the washroom in the morning. But when I pissed at the piss pot, my piss immediately becase white smoke. I never saw such phenominon in my life.
Anyway, it was even colder outside, so I put “adhesive warming pad” in my boots. I also wore “double gloves” in my hands.
We left the hutte at 7:30 and began hiking toward “Shirakomano Ike” or “Pond of White Hourse.”
[We left the hutte at 7:30,ヒュッテを7時半に出発。휘테를 7시반에 출발.]But as soon as we began walking, I felt acute pain in my hands. Mr. Mastumoto wore loose mittens and he said he did not feel any pain. I guessed it was because my inner gloves were too tight so they hindered the sirculation of blood in my hands. So, I took off the inner gloves, and in stead, I put warming pad inside of the outer gloves. They were dramatically effective, and I was free from pain!
[In front of the closed rodge,休業中のロッジの前で、휴업중의 로지 앞에서]After walking for about 30 minutes, we arrived at “Shirokomaso.” But it was closed just like “Shimagare Rodge” on Mt. Shimagare. The Shirakoma Pond was completely frozen. We could take pictures on the pond.
[At Shirakoma Pond, 白駒の池にて、시라코마의 연못에서]
Then we headed toward Mt. Maruyama from the point where the trail for hikers and the path for mountain skiers met.
The trail to the top of Mt. Maruyama was a gentle slop covered with heavy snow. Since I walked ahead of Mr. Matsumoto, I could walk at my own pace. So, I felt my better than the previous day.
We put our bags at the branch between Mt. Nakayama, and climbed on Maruyama. We arrived at the peak of Maruyama at 9:15. The peak was surrounded by big trees, so we did not have good command of view, yet the snow-covered trees and blue sky were so beautiful, we enjoyed seeing the scenery there.
[At the top of Maruyama,丸山山頂にて、마루야마 정상에서]
After taking pictures, we returned to the branch, and walked toward “Hutte Takamiishi.” There was an ovseratory just behind the hutte. We had to climbed the rocks to reach the top of the observatory.
It was 9:40 we arrived at the top of the observatory. We had good command of views from there and we could see “Pond of While Horse” clearly from there.
[At the observatry,展望台にて、전망대에서]
Then we began walking the highest peak of the day, Mt. Nakayama. It was not a too steep slope, yet there was heavy snow piled up both sides of the trail.
After climbing the slope for one hour, we came to the ridge where it blew strong wind all the time. We could see beautiful “Tails of robster” on the trees there, but something bad happened to us.
We could see the trail and the marks of the trail very clearly until a certain point on the ridge. Then the marks and the trail suddenly disappeared!
[Heavy snow covered the trees,豪雪が降り積もっていた。대설이 내려 쌓이고 있었다.] We tried to find the marks and trail at and around the point where it ended. But we could not find them. The wind was strong and the snow was deep, so we decided to return to the rodge.
[We tried to find the trail,我々は登山路を探そうとした。우리은 등산로를 찾기로 했다.] We began decending the slope towards Hutte Takamiishi with heavy mind. Yet we had hope to have hot ramen there and asked the people working at the hutte. But when we went back to the hutte, we saw a sign saying they were out of the hutte for bringing necessary goods for the rodge. So, the hope to have hot ramen had gone.
Mr. Matsumoto called “Shibugotenyu Ryokan” where we were to stay that night and asked the situation of down trail from Takamiichi Hutte, but they did not know the situation.
[The scenery around Hutte Takamiishi,高見石ヒュッテ周辺の様子、다카미이시 휘테 주변의 풍경]We had only chocolate and hot tea for snack and began decending the mountain.
Fortunately, we met an only fellow hiker that day there. He was a young hiker (maybe 30s) and told us that the tail was OK. He said that it was necessary to walk carefully not to lose the trail during the place called “Saino-kawara” or “Dry Riverbed of the Hell.”
[Pointing at Mt. Nakayama where we lost our way,登山路を失った中山を指さす、등산로를 잃은 나카야마(中山)를 가리키다]We could see his foot-steps on the trail, so even during “Saino-kawara” we could walk safely, without losing our way.
[At "Saino-kawara" or "Dry Riverbed of the Hell,『賽の河原』にて、『시노가와라 강변』에서]We arrived at “Shibugotenyu Ryokan” at 1:24 p.m. The okami looked beautiful but not so friendly. Yet she allowed us to check-in much earlier than regular time.
[We arrived at the ryokan at 1:24 p.m.,渋御殿旅館に午後1時24分に到着した。시부고땐여관에 오후 1시24분에 도착했다.]
[At our room in the ryokan, 渋御殿湯の部屋で、시부고땐여관 방에서] When Mr. Mastumoto asked her to prepare bowls of hot noodle “Sansai Soba,” she did not give him immidate answer. (She needed to consult her cook.) Afterall, she brought delicious “Sansai Soba” to our room.
[A bowl of "Sansai Soba" noodle, 山菜そば、산채(산나물)메밀(국수)]The hot spa was really nice there. There were two different size of spas there. One is a large one at “Shinkan (new building)” and the other was a small spa at “Kyukan (old building.)”
Both spas had a set of three bathtubs. One was a small bathtub with rather cold water (27℃). There was a cup on the rim so people can drink this sour water.
[The first bath water was 27℃、第1の湯槽は摂氏27度、첫번째 온탕의 수선은 섭씨 27도]The scond one was a lukewarm spa of 37℃ in which I could jumped in. The natural water of spa came from the bottom of the bathtub. The 3rd one is the largest bathtub with wooden plates laid on it. They heated the water up to 42℃ so we could enjoy the warm spa-like temperature.
The ryokan had 30 rooms, but again we were the only guests. The okami guided us to a small room in Kyukan. Yet she made us available to use both spas at Shinkan and at Kyukan. So, we jumped into the spa in Shinkan first. (You could use sampoos and reinse only in spa at Shinkan.) Then at night, after the dinner, we jumped into the one in Kyukan.
The room temperature was much higher than the hutte on the previous night. We could enjoy seeing “Sumo” on TV in our room.
While having dinner at the dining room, the okami prepared “futon” for us in our room, so it was indeed “ryokan” service.
[The dinner table of the ryokan, 渋御殿湯旅館の夕食、시부고땐 여관의 저녁 식사] We liked the spa so much that we went to the spa in Kyukan again in the morning.
This was my 4th hike for the year 2011. I thank Mr. Matusmoto for introducing such a nice hiking course and the nice ryokan for me.
We paid 9500 yen for each, including “Sansai Soba” and extra beer for the dinner.
日時：2011年1月14日(金）晴れ
登山場所：登山場所：北八ヶ岳[丸山(2330m)、高見石(2265m)、中山(2496m)[長野県茅野市]
登山コース：登山コース：麦草ヒュッテ～白駒池～丸山～高見石ヒュッテ→展望台→高見石ヒュッテ⇒中山山頂付近→高見石ヒュッテ～賽の河原～渋の湯(渋御殿湯旅館泊)(約10km、6時間)
同行者：松本氏
麦草ヒュッテは収容人数が150人の大きな山小屋だが、宿泊客はわれわれ2名のみ。朝食は広くて寒い食堂で6時半から。食後に前夜松本さんが記入した「徒然帳」に私も記入した。
[Breakfast at the hutte, ヒュッテの朝食、휘테의 아침 식사]若女将は気の置けない30代～40代の人で、ソウル近郊の山(おそらく北漢山)に登ったことがあるという。現在穿いている登山ズボンもその時購入したそうだ。女将は食後、挽きたてのコーヒーをサービスしてくれた。
驚いたのはトイレの出来事。トイレは石油ストーブが置いてあったが、自分の小便が便器に当たった瞬間、ファと白い水蒸気に変わった。このような現象を見るのは生まれて初めての経験だ。
とにかく寒いのでしっかり重武装して7時半に出発した。出発してすぐに私の両手があまりの寒さにまるで拷問を受けているように傷んだ。
[We left the hutte at 7:30,ヒュッテを7時半に出発。휘테를 7시반에 출발.]松本氏はゆるやかなミトンをしていて特に問題はないと言うが私は二重手袋なのにおそろしく痛む。もしや下の手袋が指を締め付けているためではと思い、上のゆるやかな手袋だけにして、手袋の中に「貼り付け型カイロ」を入れてみた。すると痛みは一気に解消し、楽になった。
平坦な樹林のなかを30分ほど進むとかなり大きな山荘「白駒荘」に出た。白駒荘は縞枯山荘同様、休業中だった。
[In front of the closed rodge,休業中のロッジの前で、휴업중의 로지 앞에서]我々はここで荷物を降ろして全面氷結した白駒の池の上で写真を撮った。白駒の池は丸山と白駒峰との間の標高2115mに位置する堰止湖で、毎年11月には全面氷結するそうだ。
[At Shirakoma Pond, 白駒の池にて、시라코마의 연못에서]
白駒の池の由来はウィキペディアによると下記の通り。
「むかし、一組の男女が恋に落ちた。それをよく思わない女性の父親は、二人の仲を裂こうと男性を山奥へと追いやってしまった。女性は男性を追って山に入るが、道に迷ってしまう。するとそこへ一頭の白馬が現れ、女性を池まで導き、男性がこの池の中にいると告げる。女性は白馬とともに池へと消え、二度と帰ることはなかった。この民話に登場する白馬が「白駒」で、池名の由来とされる。」
白駒池でしばし写真撮影をした後、クロスカントリー・スキーのコースと登山路が交わる地点から、丸山へ向かった。
丸山への登山路は緩やかな上り坂で、昨日と異なり、私が先頭としてマイペースで歩いたため、息が切れることはなかった。
中山と丸山山頂への分岐点に荷物を置いて丸山山頂に向かった。山頂には9:15に到着。さほど展望が良いわけではないが、雪が大量についた樹木が美しい。
[At the top of Maruyama,丸山山頂にて、마루야마 정상에서]
山頂で写真撮影した後、分岐点に戻り、高見石ヒュッテへ向かった。高見石ヒュッテに荷物を置いて、ヒュッテの裏側の展望台に登った。ここはむき出しの岩がごろごろしている丘で、展望が良いため「高見石」と名付けられたものと思う。
[Takamiishi Observatory, 高見石展望台、다카미이시 전망 대]
展望台には9時40分に着いた。ここから眼下に白駒池がよく見えた。高見石でもしばらく写真撮影した後、高見石ヒュッテへ戻っていよいよ午前中最後のピークである中山へ向かった。
[At the observatory, 展望台にて、전망 대에서]
ここの上りは振り返るとだんだん展望がひろがるコースだったが、約１時間登った山頂付近は強風が吹き、悪いことに登山路が突然途切れてしまった。
[It was browing strong wind around the peak,頂上付近はものすごい強風が吹いていた。정상부근은 대단한 강풍이 불고 있었다.]直線の登山路をさえぎる形で雪の小高い丘ができていて、迂回すると膝の上まで雪に埋もれてしまう。尾根の傾斜地でもあり、遭難する恐れも出てきたため、やや躊躇したのち、せっかく1時間以上も登ったのだが、高見石ヒュッテまでバックすることにした。
松本氏はひどく気落ちしたが、しかし無理して遭難するわけにはいかない。高見石ヒュッテへもどったのは11:35。
ここで熱いラーメンでもたべて、気をとりなおして別ルートで下山しようと考えたが、ヒュッテには荷揚げのためしばらく留守にするというメッセージが残され無人だった。
松本氏は予定した渋の湯の旅館へ電話をかけて、下山ルートの状況を確かめようとしたが、旅館では状況は分からないと言う。
[Mr. Matsumoto called the ryokan,松本氏が旅館へ電話を掛けた。마쓰모토씨가 여관에 전화를 걸었다. ]とりあえず、ラーメンはあきらめて、持参したチョコレートと麦草ヒュッテでもらった熱いお茶で20分ほど休憩し、12時過ぎに下山にかかった。
高見石から渋の湯への下山ルートを下りはじめるとすぐに、渋の湯から上がってきた単独登山者とすれ違った。彼は我々がであった唯一の登山者だった。
彼に状況を訊くと、渋の湯から高見石のルートでは「賽の河原」と呼ばれる谷あいの岩の多い部分が登山路がやや明確ではないが、あとは大丈夫だと言うことだった。
賽の河原へ下る手前の展望の良い場所から中山がよく見えたが、残念と思いながら、賽の河原へ下りた。
[Pointing at Mt. Nakayama where we lost our way,登山路を失った中山を指さす、등산로를 잃은 나카야마(中山)를 가리키다]ここは確かに登山路が雪で埋もれてはいたが、すれ違った単独登山者の靴跡が残り、また、目印の赤い丸もよく見えて、特に問題はなかった。
[At "Saino-kawara" or "Dry Riverbed of the Hell,『賽の河原』にて、『시노가와라 강변』에서]
賽の河原を過ぎれば緩やかな下りで、すぐに渋の湯へ出た。渋の湯の渋御殿湯旅館に到着したのは午後1時24分だった。
[We arrived at the ryokan at 1:24 p.m.,渋御殿旅館に午後1時24分に到着した。시부고땐여관에 오후 1시24분에 도착했다.]
[A toast at our room in the ryokan, 渋御殿湯旅館の部屋で乾杯、시부고땐 여관의 방에서 건배! ]ここのおかみはなかなかの美人だったが麦草ヒュッテの若女将のような愛想はなかった。それでもわれわれの時間前のチェックインを許し、またわれわれのたっての注文に応じ、山菜そばも作ってくれた。
またここの大小２つの風呂(新館および旧館)は「秘湯」の名に恥じない趣のある風呂で、源泉は20度台の冷泉(白濁硫黄臭)だった。
どちらの風呂も冷たい源泉(26℃飲用可)と、足元自噴のややぬるい風呂(36℃)、それを加温して42℃にして、木の板の蓋をかぶせている大風呂の３つがある。
この大旅館もこの日の客は我々二人だけなのに、大小どちらの加温風呂も入れるようにしてくれたのはありがたかった。
まず、大浴場に入り、その後、3時から部屋のテレビで大相撲中継を見た。夕食は5時からということだったが、相撲がみたくて、呼びに来るまで見ることにしたら、結局結びの一番の前に番頭さんが呼びに来た。
食事は刺身やら鍋物やらなかなか豪華で満足した。料金は山菜そばやビールも込みで1泊2食一人9500円だった。
[The toast for the safe arrival at the ryokan, 冬山登山の無事下山に乾杯、겨울 등산 무사하산에 건배!] なお夕食後、部屋に近い小浴場でさらに2回、入浴した。「信玄の隠し湯」に恥じない、古びた木造のすばらしい雰囲気の秘湯だった。
渋御殿湯温泉の紹介ブログ：
http://3.pro.tok2.com/~kumaken/onsen/nagano/sibugotenyu.html
今年4回目のハイキングは、途中はちょっとスリリングな、そして最後は秘湯でしめくくる満足なものとなった。
素晴らしいハイキングを計画し、困難に際しては臨機応変に対応し、素晴らしい秘湯の旅館を紹介してくれた松本氏に改めて感謝。
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